Tying With Stan Episode 2: Fishy’s Hopper
Fishy’s Hopper is a fly Stan gently insisted I learn how to tie and I agreed. I showed up with visions of Orange Stimulators in my head. I’ve tried several times to tie them but I can never get the material proportions right. I always end up with a Size 6 fly tied on a Size 12 hook. It might catch a desperate brookie in a nutrient-starved high mountain stream but only if you’re really lucky.
Anyway, we’re not talking about my overstuffed stimulators, this post is about Fishy’s Hopper – a pattern developed by Jay “Fishy” Fullum. Those of you who subscribe to Fly Tyer magazine might remember his name from his regular segment on “Innovative Fly Tying.” He also has several books and a DVD which include step by step instructions for a lot of his unique patterns and useful tips and pointers from how to execute technical patterns to how to tie flies using common household items. I enjoy all of his ideas and concepts and have found his patterns to be very effecctive in every application.
Aside from all of this, the Hopper is just fun to tie. Working with chunks of foam, shaping them, coloring them with markers, has an arts-and-crafts vibe to it that I enjoy. Also, this fly is DEADLY. When it hits the water and the rubber legs wiggle, be ready to set the hook. I have yet to try this pattern on trout but for bass, bluegill, pickerel and perch this is a go to fly for topwater action.
Hook: Long Shank Size 6-12
Thread: Olive 140 denier
Body: Foam (Shaped and Colored as described below)
Legs: Green Sili-legs
Color: Green and brown permanent markers
1. Start your thread on the hook and secure it, but do not wrap forward. (Note my old school bobbin setup courtesy of Stan).
2. Cut a piece of foam approximately 1/4″ longer than the total length of the hook. The “head’ of the hopper should be scooped out a little to create a concave surface at the front of the fly. This gives it a little popper action when you’re stripping it in (always good for making the bass mad and drawing their attention). The “ass” end should be shaved down and tapered/rounded to look more like an insect. In general try to remove the corners and edges and turn hard edges into rounded/smoothed ones. (See below for an example but you can do better!)
3. Tie your foam in place. When securing it, make several wraps one on top of the next. This technique will be used to imitate the segmentation on a real grasshopper’s exoskeleton. When aligning the foam, the head should be just behind the eyelet of the hook, with the ass hanging out over the bend of the hook.
4. Lift the foam so it’s not in the way and wrap the thread up the shank of the hook about halfway to the eye. DO NOT wrap over the foam while doing this. Once you’ve reached the halfway point, wrap around foam again with several overlapping wraps. The segmented look is beginning to take shape.
5. Repeat step 4 moving further up the shank to a spot just a little bit behind the eyelet to make another set of overlapping wraps. This should be close enough to the eye to fully secure the foam in place, but far enough back from the end of the foam to create the impression of a “head” of the grasshopper. (See Below)
6. Rotate your vise 180 degrees so the shank is on top. Coat the hook shank and entire underside of the fly with epoxy and let it dry. Applying the epoxy to both the foam and the hook ensures a strong bond between the materials and the hook. This is essential because the bass are going to go crazy for this fly as soon as it hits the water so you want to tie it so that it withstands the beating it will inevitably endure.
7. Color the top half of the body with green permanent marker. We used “Prismacolor” markers in “Olive Green”. Color the sides and under-body with brown (or whatever color scheme you want). Two tone is generally better, but it’s up to you. As I said before – it’s arts and crafts time – go nuts! (the photo below shows the marker we used for the body of the fly).
8. Take your sili-leg and thread it through the eye of a sewing needle. Push the needle through the foam body halfway between the front two thread wraps.
9. Push the needle all the way through and pull it until the legs are approximately equal length on both sides. Cut the sili-leg at the eye of the needle – leaving 2 legs on either side.
10. Start new thread wraps on top of the existing wraps just behind the legs. Catch the legs in on both sides to give them a sleeker, swept back profile and tie off. Whip finish and cut the thread. I usually apply a small amount of super glue to the thread just before I whip-finish for added durability. If you do this just be careful not to let the glue drip down your thread into your bobbin holder. Finally, trim the legs to the length you want. Don’t cut them too short, the back and forth wobble of the rubber legs is part of what makes this fly so enticing to bass, bluegills and perch. Enjoy!













































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Chris Michels. Just a fisherman.
Nick Naclerio. Just a fisherman, too.
Andrew Rafter. Yup, Just another fisherman.